Great Lakes Road Trip: Day 10 – Niagara to Toronto

It’s not a long trip from Niagara to Toronto, skirting the edge of Lake Ontario all the way. Rather than take the freeway, we try to find the coastal route and come across a couple of beautiful views, and a handful of surprising local sites.

First stop is St. Catherine’s, one of the more industrial towns in the region. Instead, we drive through wine country to reach the beach and lighthouse at Port Dalhousie.

Here’s where we start running into surprises: first, we drive through Louth, then Lincoln, and finally Grimsby – all towns familiar from back home. We stop off at Jordan Harbour in Lincoln to see the wreck of “La Grande Hermine”, a ship built in 1914 which was brought to the Niagara area to be a floating casino. After being torched in 2003, it has lain abandoned as a rusting hulk just visible from the main road.

We drive on through Hamilton – another industrial port city which feels rather run down, and then stop for lunch in Oakville, which is a bustling and very picturesque suburb about half an hour outside Toronto.

Finally, we make it into the city and head to our apartment on John Street. It’s very well located: our view is of the CN Tower, the Blue Jays baseball stadium, and the lakefront just a stone’s throw away. Here’s where we’ll spend the next couple of days exploring the thriving city.

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Great Lakes Road Trip day 9: Niagara

Well. You know what today is all about: there’s only one reason that people come to Niagara, surely? Yes – we’re going to be attempting a tightrope walk across the Niagara river, like Blondin did in 1859, and Nik Wallenda did as recently as 2012. Mind you, Dominic’s a bit afraid of heights, so scrap that. Instead: let’s seal ourselves in a barrel and throw ourselves over the falls like Annie Taylor did in 1901, followed by a queue of other loons. Still a bit crazy? How about a sedate canoe ride down the Niagara river and over the falls? That’s what Jessie Sharp tried in 1990. 1990! Where’s the health and safety officer? Sadly, he died. Anyway – after lots of deaths, some near misses and the odd success story, we decided to stick to the safe option: sailing in a pleasure cruiser into the heart of the falls. Our biggest decision? Which side to launch our intrepid escapade. The Americans dress in natty blue waterproof ponchos and sail in the Maid of the Mist, while the Canadians don a stylish shade of red, to ride the Hornblower. That was our preferred choice. So into the falls we went. Karen was so brave she decided not to wear a poncho at all. Or a barrel. In searing temperatures, the spray of the mist was a refreshing relief from the humidity on the shore.

Joking aside, these falls are pretty impressive – and the boat ride is a lot of fun, if you’re happy getting entirely drenched. Back up top the sheer scale of the falls and the force of the water is quite mind-boggling. Apparently, the erosion caused by the water has meant that the falls have receded 11km down the coast over the last 1000 years.

But if you thought that a phenomenally impressive wonder of the natural world was the only reason to visit this neck of the woods, think again. Just a hop and a skip down the river lies the picturesque town of Niagara on the Lake. And when we say picturesque, we mean chocolate box pretty.  Not surprisingly, there’s your fair share of boutique chocolate shops, so we had to purchase some delectable delights.

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Perhaps more significantly, Niagara on the Lake is home to the Shaw Festival, celebrating the work of GBS. Nowadays, the repertoire has expanded a bit – so had the theatres not been dark on the day of our visit, we could have enjoyed Sherlock Holmes, Joan Littlewood, or Chekhov in one of three delightful venues in the town.

As if that were not enough, Niagara on the Lake is also the epicentre of a thriving wine culture, with vineyards galore and a fair smattering of wobbly middle-class tourists cycling from one winery to the next. Sounds like a future trip for us and the Jaggers.

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However, the real reason we are here, of course, is to take in the lakes. And it’s at Niagara on the Lake that we meet Great Lake number three – Lake Ontario. Against the idyllic backdrop of a tree, we find a plaque celebrating the escapades of another load of crazies, who have taken to the water to swim 51km across the lake. We reckon the bloke on the right has just finished his crossing.

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Tomorrow, we’ll be making the same journey. But by car. And like the buffalo girls we are, we’ll be going round the outside. See you then.

 

Great Lakes Road Trip Day 8: Cleveland to Niagara

Last night we dined in a bank. Today, we robbed one.

Everything started as we had planned it. We left Cleveland by about 10am, en route to Niagara. We’d always anticipated stopping for lunch at the Chautaugua Institution in up-state New York. And so we did.

This had been recommended to us by our friend Liz. It’s an amazing place: established around 150 years ago, it was set up to encourage self-improvement through artistic pursuits, intellectual debate, and educational lectures. Chautaugua is now a gated community for residents and visitors, which boasts an impressive series of concerts, plays, operas, and classes, all intended to nurture creativity and community. This is something that is very relevant for us, since we are just about to publish our book, “Economies of Collaboration in Performance“. We enjoyed the peaceful vibe of the Chautaugua grounds and the idyllic views of the Chautaugua Lakeshore.

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There are events for everyone here – we even noticed that the Sports Club was hosting a Fortnite Tournament alongside its Shuffleboard contests. This is something that would appeal to our son Max!

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Sadly, we couldn’t stay long: we were soon back on the Interstate headed for the Canadian border and Niagara Falls. Having been advised by many people, we chose to stay on the Canadian side of the border, so we crossed over to Niagara (Canada) via the Rainbow Bridge and found our lovely guesthouse, Villa Gardenia.

It was only a short stroll into town, though we had to get some Canadian dollars out of the bank, so we stopped off on Queen Street, and that was where our trouble began.

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How were we to know that there was already a cash card in the machine? How were we to know that it would spit cash out at us from somebody else’s bank account? And how were we to know that the guy who left just as we were coming in would step straight into a car with the engine running outside the bank, leaving us holding the cash and not knowing exactly what to do with it?

So we went and had a burger and a beer. It’s always best to think on a full stomach. Now we’ve got to go back to the bank tomorrow, with our fingerprints all over the contraband and our guilt etched starkly on our faces. Good job we brought a handy holdall and some balaclavas. Karen already had a grilling on our way over at the border, and now in less than an hour we’ve committed petty larceny and grand theft cash machine. Gulp.

Notwithstanding this minor setback, we’ve found Niagara Falls (Canada) to be quite a pleasant town – even if it is very quiet. Looks exactly like the sort of Main Street on which you’d find a bank heist occurring. And they’ve obviously already identified Karen as a major wanted figure in Niagara Falls.

We strolled back to our guest house, taking a moment out to look at the meandering Niagara River.

You can’t even see the guilt, can you? Practically Bonnie and Clyde, this pair. Tomorrow, we’ll take in the Falls. (After we’ve returned the money to the bank).

Great Lakes Road Trip Day 7: Cleveland

With fond farewells we set off from Wooster, bound this morning for Cleveland. It’s not too far so we arrive by lunchtime, though with only one night in the city we have to make the most of seeing the sights.

Cleveland, perhaps surprisingly, is home to the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame – though this begins to make a bit more sense when you discover that it was Cleveland DJ Alan Freed who first coined the term “Rock and Roll” in 1951. Thus a new form of music was born, and Cleveland made its name in the annals of rock history.

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We spend a good couple of hours in the R&RHoF, which is really busy! Places like this always surprise you by being overwhelming in certain ways, underwhelming in others, and sometimes downright peculiar. One exhibit showed a scruffy old couch dating from the 1960s – it turned out to be Jimi Hendrix’s father’s sofa, fresh from a lifetime of Jimi sitting watching TV and noodling on his guitar. (You can decide whether that is overwhelming, underwhelming, or downright peculiar!)

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Some of the more beguiling exhibits in the museum were the posters, particularly these, showing the Californian summer of love:

 

In the evening we were treated by new friends Jocelyn and Tom to a lovely dinner at Crop. We’ve been really struck on this trip by the generosity and hospitality of our American hosts. Tonight, we enjoyed the lovely food, great atmosphere, and lively conversation of this piano bar (which used to be one of the city’s banks). Cleveland was in high spirits, as its baseball team the Indians beat the Los Angeles Angels 3-0 in tonight’s game. Driving back to our hotel, celebrations were in the air with fireworks and crowds throughout the city.

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Hey – we’re back! It’s August and we have another three week trip lined up. This time, we’re in the North Eastern United States, and we’ll be visiting seven states overall, along with one province in Canada.

After a hairy trip to the airport in which we nearly missed the plane completely (our suitcase did miss the plane!), we managed to get to Chicago and then drove through Illinois, Indiana and a large part of Ohio. We’re on a bit of a mission for this first day of driving, since we have to reach Wooster, OH, home of the Ohio Light Opera Festival. We’ll be here for almost a week, prior to embarking on a tour of the Great Lakes.

The trip from Chicago to Wooster is well over 350 miles, so it’s a long day of driving; still, we manage to find an hour or so to stop off at our first Great Lake – Lake Michigan, which we catch sight of from Indiana Dunes National Park, in Chesterton, IN. This is when we realise just how great these Great Lakes really are: from this sandy beach, the lake stretches away into the distance, looking far more like a sea than a lake.

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We’ll be seeing lots of sights like this along our way, but first: it’s time to get to Ohio!

The OLO is in its 40th year, and as part of this year’s symposium, Dominic’s giving a couple of talks about Rodgers & Hart and Leonard Bernstein. Alongside the symposium, there is a full schedule of performances: seven shows in the beautiful Freedlander Theatre, and an additional handful of concerts in the Scheide Music Center. What a great week! For us the highlights were two fantastic productions of Iolanthe by Gilbert and Sullivan, and Candide by Leonard Bernstein. A concert performance of Offenbach’s rarely performed Les Trois Baisers du diable (The Three Kisses of the Devil) was exciting to see, and The Pajama Game in the main house was also really enjoyable. Some of the performances were excellent, and the overall quality of the OLO company – especially in terms of their vocal ability – is tremendous.

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Wooster is a university town in the middle of deepest Ohio. Apart from the Festival audiences, it’s been rather deserted since most of the students have not been around. But driving in to the town we caught a real glimpse of rural American life – lots of sweetcorn in the fields, lots of iconic American barns by the roadside, and every so often, an Amish buggy.

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As it happens, Light Opera is not entirely Karen’s cup of tea, so from time to time she dipped out of the events of the symposium to explore the local area. Top of the list of the priorities (according to everybody we asked) was a trip to Lehman’s, the local hardware store (20 miles away). Dominic was delighted with his Olive Spoon and Bottle Opener; that’s him sated for the rest of the trip.

It’s been a fun week, and we have met lots of fabulous new friends – thanks to everyone for their great hospitality and for making us feel so welcome!

Day 17-20 Zaragoza and Logrono, Karen and Dom road trip, Spain

We now feel that we are very much on our way home. It’s quite strange doing a ’round trip’, so to speak, because as soon as we left the East coast of Spain we felt as if we’ve been heading home. Another reason is that the weather has turned and the rain is back, and there’s nothing like the rain to remind you of Blighty. Our main day in Zaragoza was a Sunday and we have learnt from this trip that this day really is reserved for families and religion, so most shops and some museums, cafes and bars are closed. There is a quietness on a Sunday which reminds us of ‘back in the day’ when the UK shut down for a day of rest…it’s actually quite nice but a bit odd.

So the obvious thing to do then…go to a church…but not any old church, this is the Basilica (more important than a cathedral, we were told!)

 

We had a fabulous lunch – we’ve had so many on this trip, that we are both dreading trying to get back in to the work clothes next week. We also managed to get quite a lot of work done for our book, so although we didn’t have a particularly touristy time in our short stay in Zaragoza, we enjoyed it all the same, and would certainly drop in again.

Our final stop before heading back to the UK is in a city called Logrono. It’s still raining and it means that the rusty red colour of the paving and the houses really comes out in the wet. As well as the rain keeping the people off the streets, it’s also siesta time, so after lunch we wander around barely meeting another soul. We’ve tried to capture some of that in these images of the old town.

 

 

Logrono is also a significant stop on the “Way of St. James”, one of the routes on the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. Characteristic signposts point pilgrims in the right direction, and special pilgrims’ hostels line the route throughout the town.

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This wall mural symbolises a pilgrim with the stamps collected from each place he has been along the route.

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We followed the pilgrimage for all of about three hundred yards but that’s about as far as our commitment has gone this time around. To tell the truth, we found a nice bar and thought it was more relaxing to watch other people tramping by with their knapsacks and their sticks.

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Because the other thing that Logrono is renowned for is that it is the capital of Rioja!

Definitely not Karen’s favourite, but Dominic wasn’t afraid to try a bottle or two (the white as well as red is delicious). Shame we’re flying back: we were going to try to fit this Melchior (18 litres) into our hand luggage, but we wouldn’t get that through security.

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(observe: Dominic also doesn’t mind the beer).

Our last day before we head home and the sun has kindly come out to remind us of what we will miss.

 

(There’s a huge bird’s nest perched on top of one of the towers – you can see in the landscape image above)

The streets are also busier and today we see quite a few backpackers with hiking sticks (you know the look…) and assumed that they were taking the pilgrimage a bit more seriously than us.

And that concludes our Spanish road trip – well, except for the drive back to Bilbao in the morning. It’s been a lovely trip but we can’t wait to get back to the family and give them all a big squeeze.

In brief, staying in AirBnB accommodation for our entire trip (bar one B&B in Girona) has been interesting. Some of the places have been great, comfortable, homely and shown us a more interesting way to spend a night than in a hotel. However, it can also be a challenge, it’s certainly more stressful trying to find the homes and then somewhere to park, and it doesn’t always work out as a cheaper alternative. It’s worked best for the budget when we’ve been able to use a kitchen and laundry, and that’s made it possible to go away for three weeks. Our advice would be to make sure you research your accommodation (as much as is possible) and to consider things like parking, air-con or heating (depending on time of year) and then be prepared that it might not be exactly what you expected. It’s also worth thinking about what you need/want at different points in your journey and then making sure the accommodation can provide that. Also don’t underestimate the mosquitos: we had a couple of days feeling quite miserable because of the amount of bites we received. Finally, unless you familiarise yourself with the language – Catalan in our case – then be prepared to take pot luck from the menus. We had some lovely and some interesting surprises. Very few people spoke English (or prefer not to) in this part of Spain, and some don’t speak Spanish either so we had great fun trying to communicate.

We think that the variety of places that we have stayed in has given us a really textured experience and we’ve stayed in cities and villages that we might not have done otherwise. We’ve seen parts of Spain with very few tourists as well as enjoyed the cultural metropolis of places like Barcelona. We feel very spoilt and lucky to have had this trip and we look forward to planning our next one. Thanks for following us and reading our blog – we hope you enjoyed it.

Day 14-16 Girona. Karen and Dom’s road trip, Spain.

Girona really is the must-see capital of the Costa Brava. And so we could make the most of our trip, we looked up what the best things to do were before we arrived. Bit confused to discover that the top attractions were

  • To take a hot air balloon ride over the city
  • To eat icecream
  • To eat crepes
  • To look at the flora and fauna

Still, we are approaching geriatric status so we decided to make the most of this gentle city and rocked up to our B&B – a delightful place called the Montjuic B&B at the top of a hill overlooking the town (a bit of luxury – quite pricey, and breakfast is extra; but it really is a beautiful place). No need for the balloon ride, then, with the fabulous views we have from our terrace… but forget the gentle stroll through leafy gardens looking at flowers while we nosh on our crepes: there’s a mammoth hill with 289 steps and several steep inclines between us and the town! Going down is easy – we just roll (we’ve eaten enough this holiday); but coming back up…. we had to establish base camp and buy proper gear before we could set off.

Anyway, it’s a pretty city as you can see – and we’d like to rewrite the list of top attractions:

  • We really enjoyed the old town with its cobbled streets and its winding passageways.
  • We had some fantastic meals at bargain prices – especially in Txalaka, a traditional Basque restaurant that served a great menu del dia – including wine.
  • We popped into the Cinema Museum, which proved to be a morning’s full entertainment, tracing the history of film back to shadow puppets and Chinese lanterns, and boasting hundreds of old magic lanterns, daguerreotypes, camera obscura, and photographs. There were loads of hands-on gadgets for the (big) kids to experiment with. Definitely a must-see attraction when you’re in town.
  • Walking the walls is also worth doing if the weather’s not too hot (which it is in the day in August!)
  • And did we mention those crepes? Nutella and Crema Catalan was the pick of the day!

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And we also caught a few rays sitting by the pool of the Montjuic B&B. No wonder John Lennon found Girona an idyllic spot (there are John Lennon gardens). So did we!

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Day 12 & 13: Barcelona, Karen and Dom’s road trip, Spain.

Two days in Barcelona is not enough – not enough to take in the vibrant city, the wealth of culture, the details of the streets and gardens, and the colour of the city squares…

And we also wanted to make the most of having a beach by the marina!

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Staying on the boat has been an experience, and there are several bars and restaurants in Port Forum, not to mention a kicking club to which the whole of Barcelona’s twenty-somethings throng. We fashionably demurred (each night) and had a glass of wine at a tapas bar before heading back to the boat. This time, we didn’t bring the super yacht so we’re slumming it a bit… no air-con… no space… but lots of added benefits like mosquitos, mosquitos and erm, did we mention the mosquitos? Currently, we’re battling it out over who has the most bites. Dom has 16 including one each on most of his toes, but Karen just pips him to the post with 17 in all. Blankety Blank cheque book and pen winging its way to the Savage. So our first top tips: Citronella is not effective on these hardy buggers, and prob best not to stay on a boat in August!

The trip from the port into town takes us through a wide area of the port, next to the natural history museum and this installation. Just the first of many artworks we see around the city.

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Once in the city we love the winding back streets, the little artisanal craft shops in the gothic quarter, and the pavement cafes in tree lined avenues. We spent ages in this art shop, Galeria Maxo, with its fantastic decor (including a train set running around the ceiling!) and quirky one-off pieces, which we couldn’t resist. Maxo himself is a really friendly proprietor and we’d say he has one of the coolest shops in the city!

And down the street, bits of graffiti remind us of Banksy:

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Carrer de la Princesa is also full of little independent shops, wine bars and less interesting souvenir shops. It’s not often that you see a shop dedicated to magic, founded in 1881, which curiously enough…

… is the same year that Pablo Picasso was born. And just around the corner, in Carrer Montcada, is the Picasso Museum – so we had to pop in.

The museum has oodles of paintings dating right back to when Picasso was in his teens, though his signature style doesn’t really emerge until the 1920s. It’s great (as it always is with art) to see the original works in their actual size – some of which were familiar, but many of which were new surprises to us. Perhaps the most exciting section of the gallery (for us) was his series of Las Meninas paintings, of which there are 58 in all. These are all the result of a 6-month intense study Picasso did of Velasquez’s painting Las Meninas:

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There are a whole series of different versions of the entire painting, and dozens of smaller paintings showing little details, like this one of the main girl.

Of course, Barcelona is not all about Picasso. Elsewhere, the city has countless other delights and lots of them related to other famous artists. The figure of Gaudi looms large, for example – you can hardly miss the Sagrada Familia, though with its torrents of tourists we took a few snaps and strolled on.

It wasn’t long before we found a side-street, a plate of tapas and a friendly waitress with a bottle of vino blanco. Well, it’s what we do best.

It could have been a difficult time to be a tourist in Barcelona, yet the vibrancy, the people and the spirit of the city are so strong, it’s showed us very clearly that, although this is a city in mourning, it is also a city full of culture, soul and freedom.

Like any of the world’s great cities, you can’t do it all in a couple of days. But we’ll definitely be back before long. Viva Barcelona!

 

 

Day 11: Leaving Lleida for Barcelona. Karen and Dom’s Road Trip, Spain.

Our morning began with a moan to the hotel. We accumulated about 10 litres of water in our bucket overnight, that’s quite a lot of dripping! But, heh ho we won’t dwell and instead we are off to play a game. X-Door is a cross between the Crystal Maze and the Da Vinci Code – so, bloomin exciting! And, it’s all the rage in Espana. At 11:30 (sharp) we rang on a buzzer at a discreet venue (ooh er missus – not that kind of discreet – more like secretive) where we were greeted by Sergio, the Master Commander, as he instructed us to call him (or just Sergio if we couldn’t be arsed with that).

The premise of the game was that we were locked in a room for 60 minutes and we had to find our way out by solving a number of clues, riddles and challenges. It was Ace!!! Sergio reminded us  that we had to work together and to spot everything. He helped us out a couple of times with some additional clues, but all in all we were impressed to escape with 2 seconds on the clock. Phew! And how very filmic!

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Now, we can’t reveal any further info about the game because of course it is all ‘Top Secret’, but needless to say we recommend it. Apparently you can find it in many big cities, but we think it is a bigger hit here than elsewhere.

If you choose to accept this mission this message will self-destruct in 5 seconds…only kidding! (We felt aptly prepared for our game because we’ve been watching loads of Action films whilst we’ve been away…we know, we should have been writing instead, but Tom Cruise and Simon Pegg were calling.)

So, after all that activity we continued our journey to Barcelona. And as the road took us  along some less interesting motorway we decided to make a pitstop for lunch in Vilagrassa. We found a snazzy restaurant called El Catalunya specialising in BBQ and snails. We declined the snails… Karen has issues eating things that she’s written about, and we played it safe  with chicken and pork. So, Karen tucked in to yummy chicken and chips and Dom had three pigs feet slapped on the plate…eeeew not quite what he expected. But, bravely without complaining he scoffed them all up…Karen would have made a noise about eating anything like it and though it looked like a challenge from ‘I’m a celebrity’… these were also really yummy. (Actually, it looked like a graveyard by the end of the shift and I was half tempted to resurrect the skeleton on my plate, but that was a bit David Attenborough for me, so I had a coffee instead.)

Literally everybody else was eating these fellas… (look through the gap in the pillars and you can see a plate of the slippery little suckers!)

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Barcelona! “I had this perfect dream…” We’ve hit the east coast at last. We’ve been looking forward to Barcelona as a high point of our trip and had expected to drive into the City with Freddie Mercury in our heads and the memory of Linford Christie winning the 100m in 1992. But of course this week has put a different slant on things. We can’t ignore that, and we will have to see how the next few days play out. It is really hard to predict how such events can impact a place, and how that will in turn affect the way that we feel able to experience it too. However, in our next AirBnB venue there is an element of calm because we are staying in Port Forum Marina on a little boat…the bedroom is a bit quirky and Karen’s already blocked the toilet with a giant poo, and Dom’s broken the table, but the mosquitos are good company…(get more citronella)…and just a stone’s throw away seems to be the hippest DJ venue in Spain (our kids would love it, and on another night Karen might also be throwing some shapes, but frankly tonight we are not feeling the vibe). However it’s a peaceful waterfront idyll

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Tonight’s viewing is An Idiot Abroad (just to help us feel a bit better about our travelling selves).

Day 10: Lleida, Spain. Karen and Dom’s road trip.

It’s been a night of frustration, alternating between having the air-con on and hearing an incessant drip filling up a bucket perched on the toilet, or turning the air-con off and gradually melting into the floor. Deciding the night was best done and dusted there was only one thing to say:

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We complained to the establishment and hoped that Lleida could rescue us from our woes.

And it did! In the bright light of day, Lleida scrubs up well, especially if you have a few good recommendations from friendly faces like Andreu in the pharmacy. So we hot-footed it up the Turo seu Vella hill to the top of the town, where the resplendent cathedral looms over the city.

You can see that Karen’s capturing all the shots on camera, so I don’t have to. Tower’s a bit wonky in this one, Kazza.

It turns out that Lleida is a pretty important city in Spanish history – and the friendly receptionists at the cathedral ticket desk got us started with a visit to the Castle of the King (Castell del Rei) and then the gothic cathedral itself. Dom’s dwarfed by the giant windows, so we did a close-up too. We asked the window cleaner to hide out of view while we took these shots. Very obliging.

We had a fabulous lunch at a restaurant recommended by Andreu (thanks!), El Porton, where the staff are lovely and the food is muy delicioso – really regional, really fresh and really tasty. (Trip Advisor only gives it 3 stars, which should keep the crowds away; but take it from us, it’s worth a visit and more stars than that!) Funny how a nice meal can sort you out a treat!

Later we headed to the Connexions exhibition at the Museu d’Art Jaume Morera. There are two small salons for the collection. The first showcased more traditional work, some work by local artists and some by visitors (like John Cage) who have made art while travelling through Spain. It was a limited collection of work, so it only took about ten minutes to take it all in. The second collection was disappointing to us in its presentation and its content – we love art, and we’re real fans of lots of contemporary work, but for us this particular collection didn’t cut the mustard. Judge for yourself  – it’s free, it’s on in Lleida until October, and you might be able to fill us in on some of the virtues of the Connexions collection!

Maybe we feel a bit bah humbug today. Karen’s also gloomy because she’s had the mosquitoes feasting on her in Lleida. With that and the air-con issue, we might be being a bit tetchy.

By the way – today’s banner image is the keyboard to the interesting organ in the cathedral. To organ aficionados it might not be much to write home about, but it appealed to us for being such a tiny organ in an enormous cathedral, for being so compact in its size and piping, and for this clattery collection of keys on its manual.

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